Wednesday, 15 October 2014

Perceptions and transformations of Elizabeth in films

Elizabeth (1997)
In 1558, the Roman Catholic Queen Mary dies of a cancerous tumour in her uterus, leaving her Protestant half-sister Elizabeth (Cate Blanchett) as queen. Elizabeth had previously been jailed for a supposed conspiracy to murder Mary but has now been freed for her coronation. The film shows Elizabeth being courted by suitors, including Henry, Duc d'Anjou, the future King Henry III of France, whom she rejects, and urged by William Cecil, 1st Baron Burghley to marry, which, as he states, would secure her throne. Instead, she has a secret affair with her childhood sweetheart, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. The affair is, however, no secret from Cecil, who makes it clear that a monarch has no private life. Elizabeth deals with various threats to her reign, including Thomas Howard, 4th Duke of Norfolk; her Catholic cousin, Mary, Queen of Scots, who conspires to have her murdered; Mary's mother, Mary of Guise, who brings French troops into Scotland to attack Elizabeth's forces when they invade.

Elizabeth permanently banishes Dudley from her private presence when she finds out that he is married. Elizabeth feels that such relations could give a man too much power over her. Moreover, cutting off her relations with Dudley is part of the process by which she becomes increasingly tough and assertive, in one scene she carefully prepares and rehearses the speech she would deliver to a recalcitrant Parliament and force through her religious reforms, the Act of Uniformity. She also becomes capable of occasional ruthless behaviour as in unflinchingly ordering the execution of those who she considers dangerous to her rule. After Elizabeth's advisor Francis Walsingham discovers Norfolk and De La Quadra plotting with King Philip, she orders their arrest and execution. Mary of Guise is assassinated by Walsingham, who acted on unofficial orders from Elizabeth. All this is a considerable change from the warm-hearted, rather romantic girl which Elizabeth was in the early parts of the film; remaining such would have been incompatible with being a queen who actually ruled and dominated the men around her, and her transformation is a major theme of the film. The film ends with Elizabeth having her hair cut by Kat Ashley and assuming the vanilla-faced and gowned persona of the 'Virgin Queen', and initiating England's Golden Age. She sits down on her throne, and the screen cuts to black.


Jenny Shircore was the hair and make-up designer (and later won an Oscar for the make-up) and Anita Burger was the make-up artist. In the film, Cate Blanchett (who played Elizabeth) agreed to having her hairline shaved to achieve the authentic Elizabethan look.




Fire Over England

The film is a historical drama set during the reign of Elizabeth I, focusing on England's victory over the Spanish Armada. In 1588, relations between Spain and England are at breaking point. With the support of Queen Elizabeth I (Flora Robson), English privateers such as Sir Francis Drake regularly capture Spanish merchantmen bringing gold from the New World.
Elizabeth's chief advisers are the Lord Treasurer, Lord Burleigh, and her longtime admirer, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. Burleigh's beautiful granddaughter Cynthia is one of Elizabeth's ladies-in-waiting, and the ageing queen is plagued by jealousy of the girl's attractiveness and vitality.

In a sea battle between the Spanish, led by Don Miguel, and the English, led by his old friend Sir Richard Ingolby the English are captured. Miguel allows Richard's son Michael to escape. Michael washes ashore on Miguel's estate, and his wounds are tended to by Miguel's daughter Elena, who quickly becomes enamoured of the handsome Englishman. As the months pass, Michael recovers and laments being apart from Cynthia, his sweetheart, but is nonetheless impressed by Elena's charms.

Miguel brings Michael the sad news that Sir Richard, his father, has been executed as a heretic. The grieving Michael denounces his rescuers and flees to England in a small fishing boat. When he is granted an audience with the Queen he urges her to fight the Spanish menace by whatever means necessary, and swears undying loyalty to her. Elizabeth is flattered by the young man's fervent devotion and later has an opportunity to take advantage of his offer of service when Hillary Vane, an Englishman spying for Spain, is killed before the names of his English co-conspirators can be uncovered.

Michael, disguised as Vane, goes to the court of King Philip II of Spain to get the letters that will set into motion a plan to assassinate Elizabeth. At the palace Michael meets Elena. Her father has been killed by the English and she is now married to Don Pedro, the palace governor. Elena keeps Michael's identity a secret as long as she can, but finally must tell her husband out of loyalty to him.

Philip sees through Michael's disguise and orders his arrest. Pedro helps him escape so that it will not be discovered that his wife aided a heretic. While Michael is returning home, the Spanish Armada sails against England and Elizabeth addresses her army in Tilbury. Michael meets her there and reveals the names of the traitors. Elizabeth knights Michael before confronting the six traitors, inviting them to fulfill their plot and kill her. Overwhelmed with shame, they agree to accompany Michael on a mission to deploy fire ships in a night attack on the Armada, massed off the coast of England. The tactic succeeds, and Elizabeth allows Michael and Cynthia to be wed.

Elizabeth was played by Flora Robson, some say because she lacked the glamorous looks of a leading lady with her high forehead, wide mouth and imposing nose.




The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex
The Earl of Essex returns in triumph to London after having dealt the Spanish a crushing naval defeat at Cadiz. In London, an aging Queen Elizabeth (Bette Davis) awaits him with love, but also with fear, because of his popularity with the commoners and his consuming ambition. His envious rivals include Sir Robert Cecil, Lord Burghley, and Sir Walter Raleigh. His only friend at court is Francis Bacon.

Instead of the praise he is expecting, Essex is stunned when Elizabeth criticises him for his failure to capture the Spanish treasure fleet as he had promised. When his co-commanders are rewarded, Essex protests, precipitating a break between the lovers. He leaves for his estates.
Elizabeth pines for him, but refuses to degrade herself by recalling him. But when Hugh O'Neill, 2nd Earl of Tyrone revolts and routs the English forces in Ireland, the Queen has the excuse she needs to summon Essex. She intends to make him Master of the Ordinance, a safe position at court. However, his enemies goad him into taking command of the army to be sent to quash the rebellion.

Essex pursues Tyrone, though his letters to Elizabeth begging for much-needed men and supplies go unanswered. Unbeknownst to him, his letters to her, and hers to him, are being intercepted by Lady Penelope Grey, a lady-in-waiting who loves him herself. Finally, Elizabeth, believing herself to be scorned, sends him an order to disband his army and return to London. Furious, Essex ignores it, orders a night march and thinks he has finally cornered his foe. However, at a parley, Tyrone points out the smoke rising from the English camp, signifying the destruction of the food and ammunition the English army needs. With no alternative, Essex accepts Tyrone's terms; he and his men disarm and sail back to England.

Thinking he has been betrayed, he leads his army in a march on London, to seize the crown for himself. Elizabeth offers no resistance to his forces, but once alone with him, convinces him that she will accept joint rule of the kingdom. He then naively disbands his army and is quickly arrested and condemned to death.

The day of his execution, Elizabeth can wait no longer. She summons him, hoping he will abandon his ambition in return for his life (which she is eager to grant). However, Essex tells her that he will always be a danger to her, and walks to the chopping block.

Perc Westmore was the makeup artist. Bette Davis (who played Elizabeth) aged thirty-one,  courageously agreed to have her appearance drastically transformed for the role of the older queen: her hairline was shaved back three inches; her eyebrows were completely shaved and replaced by thinly penciled lines; her lips were made to seem thinner and pouches were drawn under her eyes. A pasty white Elizabethan ‘beauty’ makeup finished the transformation. Strangely, she looked far more like images of the older Queen Elizabeth than she did when she played her again some twenty-five years later in The Virgin Queen (1955) when her real age much more closely matched that of the Elizabeth she was portraying.



The Virgin Queen 
In 1581, Walter Raleigh, recently returned from the fighting in Ireland, pressures unwilling tavern patrons into freeing from the mud the stuck carriage of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. When Leicester asks how he can repay the kindness, Raleigh asks for an introduction to Queen Elizabeth I (Bette Davis), to whom Leicester is a trusted adviser. Leicester grants the request.

Elizabeth takes a great liking to Raleigh and his forthright manner, much to the disgust of her current favorite, Christopher Hatton. As the court ventures outside, Raleigh graciously drapes his cloak (an expensive item borrowed from a reluctant tailor) over some mud so that the Queen need not soil her shoes. At dinner, Raleigh reveals his dream of sailing to the New World to reap the riches there. Elizabeth decides to make him the captain of her personal guard. He enlists his Irish friend, Lord Derry.

Meanwhile, Beth Throckmorton, one of the Queen's ladies in waiting, very forwardly makes Raleigh's acquaintance. Raleigh's relationship with both ladies is stormy. Beth is jealous of his attentions to Elizabeth, while the Queen is often irritated by his independence and constant talk of the New World. Hatton does his best to inflame her annoyance, but she is too clever to be taken in.

When Hatton informs Elizabeth that an Irishman is a member of her guard, Raleigh is stripped of his captaincy when he protests that his friend is loyal and refuses to dismiss him. Banished from court, Raleigh takes the opportunity to secretly marry Beth. Soon after, however, he is restored to Elizabeth's favour.

Finally, Elizabeth grants Raleigh not the three ships he desires, but one. He enthusiastically sets about making modifications. In private, however, Elizabeth reveals within Beth's hearing that her intentions do not include him actually leaving England. When so informed, Raleigh makes plans to sail to North America without royal permission.

Hatton tells the Queen not only of Raleigh's plot, but also that he is married to Beth. Elizabeth orders the couple's arrest. Raleigh delays those sent to take him into custody so that Derry can try to take Beth into hiding in Ireland, but they are overtaken on the road, and Derry killed. Raleigh and Beth are sentenced to death, but in the end, Elizabeth releases them. They set sail for the New World.

Bette Davis, once again, plays Elizabeth and Perc Westmore was Bette’s make-up artist again. He reportedly persuaded her to shave back her hairline and she wore the nightcap for the Oscars.




Elizabeth R (BBC)
Elizabeth R hit the BBC airwaves 40 years ago on 17 Feb 1971. It adopted a prize-winning formula: six different screenwriters each taking a different slice of the monarch’s life and each writing a 90-minute drama. It capitalised on the new arrival of glorious colour TV, and it was graced at its centre by the towering performance of Glenda Jackson as The Virgin Queen.

In 1971 Glenda Jackson endured physical agonies with costumes that were so heavily padded she had trouble breathing and was unable to bend her arms. Some were also so heavy that she had to remain seated, others so big she had trouble walking through doors. Glenda Jackson endured an arduous makeup (not to mention having her head partially shaved) to imitate Elizabeth’s bizarre appearance. Dawn Alcock was responsible for her make-up.



The Virgin Queen (BBC)
The Virgin Queen is a 2005 BBC and Power co-production, four-part miniseries based upon the life of Queen Elizabeth I, starring Anne-Marie Duff. As a drama, it focused heavily on Elizabeth's private life - particularly her relationship with Robert Dudley, and explored the politics of her reign in rather less depth.

Despite being a biopic of Elizabeth's life and reign, the series presented its main character with particular interest in several themes, most notably the emotional impact of her mother's execution and her love for Robert Dudley, 1st Earl of Leicester.

The drama played up the ambiguity of Elizabeth's virginity, featuring a scene where Elizabeth fantasises about making love to Dudley. However, Anne-Marie Duff later stated that the director and scriptwriter explicitly told her to play the queen as a lifelong virgin.


Anne Marie’s transformation is as dramatic as that of some of her predecessors in the role: besides the prosthetics and period makeup her hairline has been shaved and her eyebrows and lashes bleached. She commented:
“I wanted to be a woman of her various ages and have integrity within it, not be doing an impression of something … I knew that with the makeup and costume I would look good – the prosthetics not only looked amazing but they gave my face restrictions that it wouldn’t normally have – and we worked on obvious things like vocal differences and the physicality … What I wanted to do was to try and find an old brittle bones approach … I hope I’ve achieved that. I kept thinking in my head, ‘Why on earth have they cast one actress, not two?’ but I just went for it and I hope that it works.”

Neill Gorton was responsible for the prosthetic makeup; Lauge Voigt – Lauge also sculpted the old Elizabeth’s stomach and breasts for her dressing-room confrontation with Essex – and Vicky Bancroft did the on-set application. Karen Hartley-Thomas was makeup designer; Laura Schiavo was makeup artist; Maureen McGill & Anna Morena were hair stylist/makeup artists. FangsFX provided the prosthetic dentures.





Elizabeth I
Elizabeth I is a two-part 2005 British historical drama television miniseries. 

Part 1
By 1579, Elizabeth I has reigned for about 20 years and has refused to marry. Her chief advisor Lord Burghley and her spymaster Sir Francis Walsingham plan to have her marry the Duke of Anjou, brother of Henry III of France, to make an alliance against Spain. Elizabeth's favourite the Earl of Leicester strongly opposes the match because of his own longstanding affections for her. The Duke of Anjou eventually comes to court Elizabeth, but despite him being to her liking, she is later convinced by Burghley not to marry him because of negative popular opinion towards the match.
Over time, Walsingham gathers evidence to prove that Elizabeth's Catholic cousin Mary, Queen of Scots is plotting to have her killed. Elizabeth is reluctant to have Mary executed because of the war it would likely ignite between England and Spain. During a secret meeting, Mary gives Elizabeth her word that she does not want her dead. Elizabeth hesitantly gives Leicester command of the English campaign to assist the Dutch against Spain, which fails. Once it is proven that Mary has in fact been conspiring against Elizabeth's life, Mary is judged guilty of treason and later executed.
After negotiations between England and Spain fail, a fleet of Spanish ships are sent for England. Elizabeth gives Leicester command of the land forces and rides with him and his stepson the Earl of Essex to Tilbury, where they expect the Spanish to attempt a landing and where Elizabeth delivers a speech to the troops. The Spanish Armada is ultimately defeated, but Leicester falls gravely ill just as they learn of the English victory. Later, on his deathbed, Leicester bids Essex to take care of Elizabeth.
Part 2
By 1589, Elizabeth has made a favourite of Essex and falls in love with him. She is openly outraged when he takes part in an English military expedition to Lisbon against her wishes, but she forgives him in spite of his failure to take the city from the Spanish. She grants him 10 percent of a tax on sweet wines and a seat on the Privy Council, of which Lord Burghley's son Robert Cecil was also recently made a member. Essex and Cecil develop a rivalry, as illustrated by the affair of Elizabeth's physician Dr. Lopez, who is hanged based on evidence brought forth by Essex of his participation in a Spanish plot against Elizabeth, evidence proven questionable after the fact by Cecil.
Essex's political ambitions begin to clash with his devotion and loyalty to Elizabeth. As Elizabeth finds her young lover's behavior becoming increasingly worrisome, she draws closer to Cecil, who is named Secretary of State following the death of Walsingham. Essex is publicly hailed upon his return to England after taking Cadiz from the Spanish, but his relationship with Elizabeth begins to deteriorate. She and Cecil suspect Essex of secretly communicating with James VI of Scotland, son of Mary, Queen of Scots, a potential successor to the English throne. After Burghley's death, Elizabeth sends Essex to Ireland to put down a rebellion but he instead makes a truce and returns to England alone. Elizabeth puts Essex under house arrest.
Essex and his followers fail to start a rebellion in London and are captured. At his trial, Essex  accuses Cecil of collaborating with Spain but has no evidence to prove this, and he is found guilty of treason and beheaded. Some time later, Elizabeth becomes listless, going for three weeks without eating before making her way to her bed and requesting a priest, saying she is minded to die.

Fae Hammond was the make-up designer, Su Westwood, Gemma Richards & Jane Hope-Kavanagh were hair and make-up artists. 




Shakespeare In Love
In 1593 London, William Shakespeare is a sometime player in the Lord Chamberlain's Men and poor playwright for Philip Henslowe, owner of The Rose Theatre. Shakespeare is working on a new comedy, Romeo and Ethel, the Pirate's Daughter. Suffering from writer's block, he has barely begun the play, but starts auditioning players. Viola de Lesseps, the daughter of a wealthy merchant who has seen Shakespeare's plays at court, disguises herself as "Thomas Kent" to audition, then runs away. Shakespeare pursues Kent to Viola's house and leaves a note with the nurse, asking Thomas Kent to begin rehearsals at the Rose. He sneaks into the house with the minstrels playing that night at the ball, where her parents are arranging her betrothal to Lord Wessex, an impoverished aristocrat. While dancing with Viola, Shakespeare is struck speechless, and after being forcibly ejected by Wessex, uses Thomas Kent as a go-between to woo her. Wessex also asks Will's name, to which he replies that he is Christopher Marlowe.

When he discovers her true identity, they begin a secret affair. Inspired by her, Shakespeare writes quickly, with help from his friend and rival playwright Christopher 'Kit' Marlowe, completely transforming the play into what will become Romeo and Juliet. Viola is appalled when she learns he is married, albeit long separated from his wife, and she knows she cannot escape her duty to marry Wessex. After Viola learns that Will is married, Will discovers that Marlowe is dead, and thinks he is the one to blame. Lord Wessex deep down knew about the affair between Shakespeare and his bride-to-be. Because Wessex thinks that Will is Marlowe, he thinks of Kit's death as a good thing, and tells Viola the news. It is later learned that Marlowe was killed by accident. Viola finds out that Will is still alive, and expresses that she loves him. Then, Viola is summoned to court to receive approval for the match of her and Lord Wessex. Shakespeare dons a woman's disguise to accompany her as her cousin. There, he persuades Wessex to wager £50 that a play can capture the true nature of love, the exact amount Shakespeare requires to buy a share in the Chamberlain's Men. Queen Elizabeth I declares that she will judge the matter, as occasion arises.

When Edmund Tilney, the Master of the Revels, is informed there is a woman player at The Rose, he closes the theatre for breaking the ban on women. Viola's identity is exposed before the company, leaving them without a stage or lead actor, until Richard Burbage, owner of the Curtain, offers them his theatre. Shakespeare takes the role of Romeo, with a boy actor as Juliet. Following her wedding, Viola learns that the play will be performed that day, and runs away to the Curtain. Planning to watch with the crowd, Viola overhears that the boy playing Juliet cannot perform, and offers to replace him. While she plays Juliet to Shakespeare's Romeo, the audience is enthralled, despite the tragic ending, until Master Tilney arrives to arrest everyone for indecency due to Viola's presence.

But the Queen is in attendance and restrains Tilney, instead asserting that Kent's resemblance to a woman is, indeed, remarkable. However, even a queen is powerless to end a lawful marriage, and she orders Kent to fetch Viola because she must sail with Wessex to the Colony of Virginia. The Queen also tells Wessex, who followed Viola to the theatre, that Romeo and Juliet has won the bet for Shakespeare, and has Kent deliver his £50 with instructions to write something "a little more cheerful next time, for Twelfth Night”.

Viola and Shakespeare say their goodbyes, and he vows to immortalise her, as they improvise the beginnings of his Twelfth Night, Or What You Will, imagining her as a castaway disguised as a man after a voyage to a strange land. "For she will be my heroine for all time, and her name will be…Viola.”

Elizabeth was a minor (but important) character in the movie Shakespeare in Love and was played by Judi Dench. But even for a cameo role she was required to undergo an extensive makeup job. Lisa Westcott was the film’s hair and makeup designer and Veronica Brebner was senior hair and makeup artist.


Project brief - The New Elizabethan's

Our first project involves combining an Elizabethan look with a modern day look to create a 'new Elizabethan'. 

My initial thoughts towards the project were not ecstatic - I often find history quite boring and I prefer to focus on contemporary styles. However, because it also included an element of today, and modern society, this made me feel more interested in the project rather than if it was just the Elizabethans.

Although, as the brief was explained in more depth and detail and I began researching the Elizabethans, things started to come together more and I become more enthusiastic about the project. I realised that the Elizabethan era was a key period of time and some of the styles used back then actually still influence fashion and icons in today's society. I'm also quite shocked and very interested in the fact that they used to put themselves through so much pain and ruin their skin, just to look a specific way (e.g. to have pale skin).



Attributed to Isaac Oliver and Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger1600-1602
To me, this image shows Elizabethan beauty - it shows Queen Elizabeth I, who was every woman's aspiration. She set the trends such as what colour hair to have, what your skin should look like, the amount of jewellery people wished they had, therefore, everyone would try and make themselves look like this. In the portrait, Elizabeth looks flawless and extremely powerful and regal for a number of reasons, e.g. the rich colours and textures she is wearing, along with all the pearls, and even the way in which she is sat. 

I am hoping to incorporate something like this into my project, but I am excited to see how my ideas develop and expand throughout the project and over time. 

Image reference: http://www.hatfield-house.co.uk/content.asp?id=1&p=3&The-Rainbow-Portrait

Mac & Charles Fox in Covent Garden, London

Mac
The outside of the Mac store
My initial reaction to the Mac store was quite aesthetically pleasing both from outside the shop and inside. The layout of the windows makes it feel quite homely, and that you are peaking through them into something quite personal and private. I liked the colours used on the windows because they were bright and instantly captured your attention and drew you in to the store. 

The inside of the store is fairly small and cosy, but it allows you to see everything on display and gives you a more personal experience with the members of staff. The majority of the walls/background was black, which I believed worked to the stores advantage because it highlighted all of the products and decoration. 



One thing I found fascinating in the store was the technique they used to display all of their eyelashes. They had a grid of individual images of different eyelashes with different make-up looks, and underneath this was a transparent stick with an eyehole and eyelashes glued on to this - this allowed you to essentially try before you buy (as you can do with many of their other products). 


Overall, I was very impressed with the store and I think it gave off a very professional feel and look to it, but it was also welcoming. All the staff appeared very helpful and seemed like they were working in an enjoyable environment, which is always good for customers to see. This, of course, led me to buying some of their products...

Mac products (and Charles Fox brush cleaner)

Charles Fox

When viewing the window of Charles Fox, you are able to see that they do not necessarily focus on fashion make-up, but also have many other products available, e.g. for film and theatre.



When we arrived at Charles Fox we were given a tour of the store and shown all of the different types of products that were available. The shop was displayed in different 'sections', e.g. there would be a table for foundations, a special effects area, etc. 

One of the thing that caught my eye in the store was the work that they had on display; the image below particularly appealed to me because it was actually relevant to a project I am currently undergoing, therefore it helped give me some ideas and inspiration. 





Extreme contouring and highlighting

Extreme contouring is used for photography purposes and is not an everyday look - it is very over the top and exaggerates some features to large extent.

A demonstration


  • Apply a primer to the face
  • Scrape some of the desired highlighter colour out onto a palette
  • Apply this to the designated areas on the face (see below)
  • Blend this out using a clean brush so that the areas are not as clearly defined/have sharp edges




  • Select 3 colours which you are going to use for contouring
  • Apply the lightest colour to the areas on the face that you will be contouring e.g. the cheekbones, the sides of the nose, the top/sides of the forehead, and around the eyes
  • Gradually build this contouring up, working in the darker colours on top of the lighter colour
  • Continue blending and building this up until you are satisfied
  • Powder the make-up to set it in place



Products and equipment:
A puff

Translucent powder

Primer

Palette & spatular

A foundation brush

A small rounder brush

A highlighting colour (Kryolan white supacolour)

Contouring colours (Kryolan eyeshadows) 

A buffing brush

Tuesday, 14 October 2014

Everyday Contouring

When contouring you have the option to use grease based make-up or powder make-up. You can use or the other or combine both, as long as you remember to powder in between.
  • Cleanse, tone and moisturise the face. Apply your base foundation and concealer (do not powder if using grease base colours)
  • Ask your model to suck their cheeks in (see below) so that you can see their cheekbones (feel if necessary). Use 2-3 shades darker than their skin tone and apply below the cheekbone, curving it round slightly

  • Buff and blend this in so there are no stripes
  • If necessary, apply this on the sides/underneath the nose, sides of the forehead and under the chin/jawline 
  • Continue building this up and doing this process until the areas are as dark as desirable
  • Powder the face to set the make-up (ensure the face is not sticky)
  • Repeat this process with the powder make-up (optional) and set this with translucent powder
  • Then use a colour 2-3 shades lighter to highlight the face
  • Use this down the centre of the face, on the top of the cheeks and on the eye/eyebrow bone
  • Add a blusher to the cheeks and blend if necessary
  • Take the blusher up onto the forehead/down onto the chin slightly
  • Continue repeating all of the above steps and building it up until you are satisfied
Before contouring
After contouring (it is key to remember that the camera does not capture the full extent of the make-up, and there was much more impact in person)
For my first attempt, I was quite happy with how the final look turned out - I had blended well and made the face appear nice a structured. The only thing I need to improve is being more confident when applying the make-up and not holding back (especially if the look is for photography purposes), but overall I was satisfied with the work I'd done, and if anything, I do not believe the pictures gave the look justice. 


Products/equipment used: (after applying base)
A puff

A spatular and palette

A foundation brush (Kryolan premium brush 9930)

A small rounded brush (Kryolan 9712 )

Dermacolor palette

Glamour glow palette

Kryolan blusher palette

A buffing brush

    Monday, 6 October 2014

    Foundations and bases

    When creating a base on the skin, you are essentially trying to create a blank canvas where everything is the same colour, with no blemishes or imperfections. You must take into account what type of skin your client has, for example, if they have oily skin you should use an oil free base, whereas if they have quite dry skin you should use an oily base. You should also remember, that as a make-up artist, it is your job to cover all areas of the skin that are on show; this may include hands, the neck, the chest, etc.

    Products and equipment:
    A puff
    Translucent powder
    Matte primer

    Palette and spatular

    A gown and clips

    A foundation brush (Kryolan premium brush 9930)

    A small rounded brush (Kryolan 9712)

    Concealer (Dermacolor camouflage mini palette)

    Foundation (Kryolan ultra foundation)

    Foundation:

    • Ask your client of any allergies and then proceed to put a wrap around the client
    • Cleanse, tone and moisturise
    • Apply a primer to the face (matte/satin depending on required look), or you can mix it into the foundation if the foundation is too thick
    • You must now create a colour match which is tested across the edge of the face/neck
    • You do this by using a spatular and scraping out a small amount of product onto a palette and mixing different colours until the desired colour is achieved 
    • Apply this colour all over the face, using a foundation brush, starting with the nose and working outwards, continuously blending and moving the brush
    • Move backwards and forwards under the eye, and aim to get as close to the eye as possible
    • You must also stretch the neck and ask the model to open/stretch their mouth so you can get in any creases (e.g. in the chin)
    • Remember to apply the colour to the models ears


    Concealer:

    • Using the same mixing process as above, create the correct colour using the concealer palette (it is always best to go 1-2 shades lighter)
    • Using a small rounded brush, apply this under/around the eyes, around the bottom of the nose, in the corners of mouth, and wherever there are any imperfections/blemishes
    • Blend this in using the foundation brush that you previously used
    • Then buff the face with a kabuki brush
    • Always keep checking (e.g. may move/blemishes may come through in the heat) and do it again if necessary
    • Key to remember: red removes darkness, yellow boosts complexion, green remover redness

    Powder:
    • Use a puff to dip into some translucent powder and dab any excess on your arm
    • Apply this powder in a rolling motion all over the face to set your make-up in place

    Before and after - right side is before, left side is after
    Overall, I think the process was quite successful, as you can see from the picture above, I have managed to abolish the red tone that the model has naturally, and I have eliminated the majority of the blemishes. 

    My model actually had fake tan on her neck and parts of the rest of her body, so it was important that I was able to come to a compromise between the different skin tones of her face and neck and blend it in, but that is why doing the colour match test is effective when it crosses over the face and neck. 

    However, as time went on, some of the make-up began to move and created pooling just underneath the model's eye (where it slipped and gathered in a crease - see below). This helped me learn that it is vital to keep rechecking the make-up and ensuring everything is exactly where it should be. 

    Pooling occurring just underneath the eye